The passage of S. 510 has left me rather depressed, I will admit. Very depressed, in fact. I have been very prone thus far in my life to making lots of excuses for not doing the things I say I very much want to do, and now I have an even better one for not farming: S. 510! But let us talk no more today of that dreadful subject. I want to talk instead of the reason I will continue to make excuses for not farming and fight the good fight against encroaching government crackdown.
This past Thanksgiving, I was very thankful for raw milk. I was thankful for the thick mug of hot chocolate made with raw milk that I drank over the weekend. I love the way the cream rises to the top as the milk cools, so that there are swirls of white amid the deep brown of the cocoa. I love walking to my fridge at night and cutting off a hunk of raw milk white cheddar cheese, and standing in my kitchen, not really looking at the pile of dishes I haven’t done yet, and reveling in the salty smooth bite of a good cheese.
I love going to the farmers’ market, so much so that I will smile for the entire day, and so much so that I will go even when there is nothing I need to buy. This past Saturday, there was a Christmas parade, and over night the Christmas decorations had gone up in town, and there were wreaths and ribbons on all the lampposts, and one of the farmers was selling evergreen boughs. I bought a gallon of cider and a loaf of bread and later pulled off pieces of bread to enjoy with my cheese. I love that I can’t just “run” to the farmers’ market, as it takes me a good twenty minutes to say hi to everyone I know, and another twenty if I stop to talk to anyone. I love that I can walk up to someone and introduce myself and name several mutual acquaintances and within minutes we’re fast friends. I love that all those people are willing to stand out in the bitter cold for hours so I can buy some brussel sprouts. And that they love it too, and know what I bought last week, and will probably want this week, and ask after things they know are happening in my life.
I am so overjoyed that our local baker, who has until recently been selling his bread at the farmers’ market only, has finally opened his own bakery. When it opened, the Tuesday before Thanksgiving, I rushed down the block to go in and buy a loaf of bread, and was nearly in tears because I was so happy for him (and for me, now I can have croissants whenever I want). I loved the smell of bread baking. I was so in love with the loaf of bread I bought I almost didn’t want to cut it up for stuffing (but I’m still loving the stuffing leftovers, so all is well).
I loved making stuffing for Thanksgiving, because I loved all the ingredients so much. Bread from someone I hesitate to call an acquaintance, as I hesitate to call all the people I know in town acquaintances, because I care so deeply for them, even if I only see them for a few minutes a week at the farmers’ market. Apples and scallions from other farmers I know. And chicken broth made from a chicken I got from yet another farmer who I chat with every week, whose farm I have visited several times, who, even if I don’t always agree with him, I trust to give me a good chicken. And after I baked the chicken and fed it to my friends, the bones went in a pot with the fat and some other bits, and boiled and filled the whole house with the glorious smell of chicken, and I poured the liquid into a jar and froze it and pulled it back out for Thanksgiving and poured it over the stuffing knowing that the nutrients inherent in homemade chicken stock would nourish my family, as would the raw butter I put on top of the whole thing.
I loved that I was able to serve squash that a farmer had given me, just because they had too much. I loved that my cousin, who had until the day before Thanksgiving been farming in New York for the summer, brought home squash from the farm, carried it on the bus in fact, and made mashed squash with garam masala for dinner. He also brought me several enormous garlic bulbs, tied together with twine, looking almost too good to eat, and I almost cried over that too, because I missed him so much while he was gone over the summer and also because the garlic looked so gorgeous (and delicious), but mostly because I was so happy that he had spent the whole summer farming with people that he seemed to really get on with and that he looked so happy, finally.
I loved spending the entire day in the kitchen with another cousin, while we chatted and chopped and mixed and kneaded and our fourth and final cousin’s voice played on the stereo and we sang along in perfect(ish) harmony and we both missed her so much we could barely stand it, but with her voice playing it was almost like she was there, and I was so proud to have a cousin who is more like a sister with a voice that could make my heart break that it nearly did. And another cousin who is just like a sister who would spend the whole day with me in the kitchen talking about the best way to knead rolls, and why some fats are better than others, and how she showed her seventh grade class Food Inc. and talked to them about how whole foods are better than processed foods and I thought I would nearly pass out with the happiness that I have been so blessed with this amazing family.
And when we sat down to dinner, laughing and teasing and exclaiming over all the dishes, and we clinked glasses and toasted to another year of being together, and gave thanks to everyone who helped cook (almost everyone at the table), I looked down at all the foods on my plate, almost none of which had come from a store, and most especially had not come from a box or a can but from ingredients we had assembled and mixed and baked and served, and those foods would be so filling we’d all end up on the floor for a good hour after dinner, trying to recuperate, and gave thanks to all of the farmers who had provided the meal. All of the farmers who I could name, and see in my mind’s eye, and picture their farms as well, and feel each of their handshakes the first time we met, and the grins of their kids or their dogs or whoever made up their family, all of whom I knew as well, and who had spent the entire year out in the sun and rain and heat and cold to produce this food that graced our tables, and then had stood at the farmers’ market in the cold to sell it to me (or give it to me, in some cases). Because they wanted me and my family to be well fed, and that mattered enough to face all the obstacles.
And this morning when I woke up I remembered that S.510 had passed, and that it would probably become law, and nearly burst into tears again wondering how long it would be before all that was gone.
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